Sandwich Islands  Contents  Source  Whalesite

Leave Ulitea. — Pass Bollabolla without having any Communication with the Natives. — Intercourse with the Natives of Maura.            1

Adieu to the Society Islands. — Ludicrous Circumstance in the Passage, between the Otaheitan Natives and our Seamen. — Arrival at the Sandwich Islands. — Commerce. — Trading. — Desertion of our Carpenter.            10

Departure from Whahoo. — Arrival at At-towaie. — Visited by the King, and General of the Island. — Tamahama's Deter-

mination to invade them. — Friendly Reception.            23

Strong Attachment of the Natives to their present Sovereign. — Desperate Resolution of this Man in case of Invasion. — Departure for Onehow.            39

Leave the Leeward Islands, and proceed to Windward. — Arrival at Owhyhee. — Commence Trading. — Visited by Mr. Young.            57

Enterprising Spirit of the Sandwich Islanders. — Knowledge of our Language. — Dexterity in Diving. — Desertion of the Otaheitan Natives. — Tamahama's Intention of opening a Trade with China.            71

Hint to the Missionary Society. — Departure from the Sandwich Islands. — Passage to the Southward. — Suspicious Behaviour of the Natives.            83

Critical Situation. — Fortunate Escape.            104

Visit the small Island of Matia. — Intercourse with the Islanders. — One of Pomarrie's Deputies exercising the supreme Authority. — Admiration of the Natives on seeing us pump the Ship. — Arrive the second Time at Otaheite.            117

Death of the Father of Pomarrie. — Singular Character. — Departure of the Captain. — Residence in Otaheite Factory.            127

Misfortunes of an Otaheitan Agent. — Characteristic Intercourse with the Royal Family.            138

Outlines of the Royal Family.            146

Arrival of Paitia and his Sister. — Festivities on the Occasion.            154

Long Absence of the Ship. — Melancholy Intelligence of her Fate. — Narrow Escape of the Crew.            180

Particulars of the Ship during its Absence. — Ill Conduct of the Sailors.            186

Voyage to Eimeo. — Occurrences in that Island.            199

Continuation of Occurrences at Eimeo.            208

Observations on Eimeo. — Inferior much to Otaheite. — Preparations for an Expedition to Attahoura.            215

Arrival of a Ship. — Death of Pomarrie. — Character.            227

Adieu to the Society Islands. — Ludicrous Circumstance in the Passage, between the Otaheitan Natives and our Seamen. — Arrival at the Sandwich Islands. — Commerce. — Trading. — Desertion of our Carpenter.

      Leaving Maura, we bid adieu for the present to the Society Islands, and stood on our course for the Sandwich Islands. This voyage furnished no occurrences out of the common order. The seamen, in their manner, amused themselves by representing to the natives of Otaheite on board the dangers that awaited them in crossing a certain part of the sea,

      In their distress they at last applied to be informed as to the truth of what the sailors had said, and on being unde-

      The Americans carry on in particular a most active trade with these islands, supplying them with property at an easy rate in exchange for provisions, and, unless I am much deceived, will do

      In order to accommodate the natives in bringing off their articles for sale, or rather barter, we kept the ship as close as possible in with the land: but then we were beset with such numbers of men and women, that our vessel could not have contained a quarter of our

      The natives showed the utmost eagerness to get on board the ship; but when all their attempts were opposed, and themselves forced back into their canoes by our new-made marines, they at last contented themselves with lying at a little distance, conversing with our Otaheitan natives. After some time, appeared one of the deputy chiefs of the island, under Tamahama, whose approach created no small stir and bustle among the other islanders in their endeavouring to open a passage for him. But as many of their canoes were crowded and entangled together, they were in the hurry run down by the canoe of this great man, who took not the least notice of the disasters he had so wantonly occasioned, or rather who affected this

ment of our numerous visitors : seemingly resolved that we should be troubled with no other impertinence but his own. He commanded the canoes to remove to a greater distance, and issued his mandates in a tone of authority which would not have disgraced a bashaw. He appeared to entertain an equal indifference to any mischief he might cause; for as many of his countrymen as were in any degree tardy in obeying his mandate, he saluted with stones from our ballast, which maimed not a few of them.

      Nor did the natives appear to oppose any resistance, but submitted, as if to an acknowledged authority, without murmur or reluctance. In these islands, indeed, obedience is understood as well as tyranny, and the despotism and wantonness of command in the chiefs is only equalled by the correspondent timi-

      Although we could not but abhor the despotic conduct of this chief, yet to it we were indebted for the clearing of the ship from crowds of natives, who were endeavouring on all hands to come on board. He had however with him some friends, whom he requested leave to introduce to us, and to whom on his account we shewed what civilities appeared to be proper.

      We remained only a few days in this island, salt being so scarce that we were obliged to remove the ship to several different places to glean what could be found. When our business was over, we settled our accounts, with the chief just mentioned, who was receiver-gene-

ral for the king. He then left the ship, and, to our astonishment, was accompanied by every native, taking to their paddles, and making for the land with all possible speed. One canoe, the one which had brought off one of Tamahama's naval officers, alone remained. We enquired of this person the meaning of the sudden departure of his countrymen, but he declared he was totally ignorant of the cause, and neither could nor would give us any satisfaction. Being apprehensive of some treacherous projects against us, either on the part of the islanders or of their chiefs, it at first occurred to us to secure the person of this officer as a pledge for our safety; but on further consideration of the difficulties to which this step might expose not only us, but other future European navigators, we judged it most prudent to suffer him to depart.

      As soon as he had left us, beginning now to suspect the true cause of the hasty departure of our visitors, I made enquiry amongst our people whether they had not found means to steal some articles belonging to the ship; and from their general precipitation, and general flight, my mind suggested to me that the theft was of no ordinary consequence. It was some time before I could procure a satisfactory answer; but it was at length discovered that our carpenter had secretly conveyed himself in. to one of the canoes, and had thus been carried on shore.

      Such is the difficulty, nay almost impossibility, of maintaining the necessary complement of men in these voyages, that I could almost recommend that no one should hazard the attempt, unless, as in a king's ship, he can support his authority by martial law. Nothing, as

      The acquisition of such a person was of inestimable value to Tamahama, and there seemed to be little doubt that, conscious of the value of their prize, they would defend it with their utmost efforts. Our force, moreover, was wholly inadequate to compel them to restore him; and in endeavouring to recover one of our ship's company, we should have run the risk of losing many more by similar desertion. From these and other reasons, we thought it more prudent to put up with our loss; although of a person whom we could so ill spare.

      Although the island of Whahoo is one of the most fruitful in the dominions of Tamahama, and that the natives supplied us with an abundance of all necessary articles, yet the demands of the sellers were much higher than we had either reason to expect, or could indeed afford. The natives have indeed profited sufficiently by their intercourse with navigators, to know the greater value of their country produce than at what they had hitherto rated it.

      One of these islanders had the modesty to demand the ship's main-sail in barter for four hogs. In all their bargains they would have their choice of whatever articles they wished in exchange, and as much of these as they wanted; no business could otherwise be done, and they returned with their wares to the shore. We were therefore obliged to confine our dealings to what was indispensably requisite for the use of the ship and crew.

      Here we were informed that the king Tamahama, attended by the greater part of his chiefs, was at present at Mouie. It is the wise policy of this chief, that all those who possess any authority or influence in the country, should accompany him in his progress through his dominions, that he may have them constantly under his eye, and not leave them exposed to the seductions and conspiracies of his rival chiefs. These are

      Leaving Whahoo, we directed our course to another island to the leeward, called Attowaie; but the wind was so unfavourable, that we could not weather the south part of this island; we therefore stood along close under the north shore, proceeding slowly to give the natives an opportunity of guessing the object of our visit. It was not long before some of the islanders came off to us; they requested us to anchor until they should return, and inform their countrymen of our arrival upon their coasts.

      Amongst these islanders the arrival of an European vessel is an event of the first political importance; an event in which king and people are equally concerned. The Otaheitans receive us with the satisfaction of friends; the Sandwich islanders have reached more than one gradation higher in the scale of ci-

vilization, and, understanding their own interest, consider their European visitors as the importers of new arts, and new skill and industry, into their country. The voyage of Vancouvre has made a most eminent and permanent change in the situation of the Sandwich islanders. They have taken a leap as it were into civilization, and, if their progress keep any pace with the vigour of their first start, they will not be long considered as savages.

      In the interval of waiting the arrival of our promised visitors, we fitted up our temporary marines, and made every other preparation that might make a favourable impression on the minds of the natives.

      As soon as it was made known on shore that a ship had appeared off the coast, with an intention to stop and take in supplies, the commander in chief or

      This personage appeared in a most beautiful canoe; he seemed to be overjoyed at our arrival, and apologised on account of the lateness of the hour, for his master's not waiting on us in person.

      He was particularly inquisitive respecting the situation of affairs at Whahoo, and the state of the preparations made by Tamahama for the threatened invasion of the island. We explained to him that however painful it was to us to be messengers of disagreeable tidings, we could give him no encouragement to hope that Tamahama had laid aside his project; for that every thing seemed to show his determination to attempt it as speedily as the necessary preparations would allow. This the chief said he already had learned, and was now grieved to have the news confirmed by strangers,

who had no possible interest in deluding him.

      It was easy to see how much this information affected him, for, from being extremely gay and communicative, as when he first came on board, he instantly became melancholy and taciturn. He was a near relation of the king, and had steadily adhered to him in all his misfortunes. They were now cooped up with a small body of faithful followers, but were firmly resolved to oppose to the utmost the attacks of Tamahama.

      May the efforts of their courage and patriotism give an awful lesson to their ambitious conqueror, that courage in a good cause, animated by despair, is a sufficient overbalance for even a greater inequality of force! Tamahama is no unworthy imitator of his European original. His haughty tone to his enemies, and his genius and spirit of enterprise>/p>

in creating resources which did not exist before him, may not unjustly bring him into a comparison with the emperor of the French.

      To change the gloomy current of our visitor's thoughts, we exhibited before him some articles of British manufacture; he commended them indeed, but with the air of carelessness of one whose mind was possessed with objects of a more immediate interest. He inquired frequently whether we had on board any fire-arms or gun-powder, in the expectation that we would furnish them with at least a small supply of each. This, however, we thought proper to decline, endeavouring to make him comprehend that our stock was far from being sufficient for ourselves, under the numberless occasions we might have of self-defence before we could either return to our own country, or procure farther supplies.

      In the evening, when the captain was examining some charts of those seas, the chief looked earnestly over him, and begged that their island might be pointed out to him. This was done, and he expressed great pleasure in finding that even their little corner had not been omitted. When night came on, the chief requested that some covering might be provided for the natives who attended him. This was readily complied with, as we had an abundant stock of cloth of the manufacture of Otaheite. This was extremely well received; and presented to our Otaheitans an opportunity of pointing out, with no little satisfaction, all its good qualities, as well as of displaying to the strangers the vast wealth and power of their own sovereigns, Pomarrie and Otoo; the main point of their eloquence being to prove the prodigious superiority of Otaheite over all other quarters of the world. The

long voyage they had accomplished in our ship was not forgotten; and on this they valued themselves highly, as giving them an infinite advantage over all other islanders.

      The chief retired early to rest; but his attendants and their new friends from Otaheite, whose language, complexion, and manners, so nearly resembled their own, were too highly delighted with each other, to be prevailed on to part until after midnight.

      The exiled king of these islands bears a character infinitely superior in a moral point of view at least, to that of his more powerful rival Tamahama. The fidelity of former dependants in a season of misfortune and fallen power, is surely no doubtful testimony of the virtues of a conquered king; and the virtue of this chief, if measured according to this standard, is

great indeed. He appeared to be loved almost to adoration, and his authority from influence seemed to be increased almost in the same proportion as his actual power had become diminished. Is it not a phenomenon in the political world, that the greater part of all unhappy revolutions, revolts, and conquests, usually happen under such kings? It is not to the honour of the generosity of our nature, that we are thus inclined to avail ourselves of that confidence and lenity, which always characterises power in the hands of a benevolent nature? On the following morning we received a visit from this good king, and were welcomed very heartily by him to Attowaie. His skin was covered with a greyish scurf, probably occasioned by the immoderate use of the ava. This loathsome disease had made a greater progress on the person of this man, than

      From some Englishmen who had followed his fortunes for several years, this unfortunate chief had acquired such an acquaintance with our language, that he was able to understand and answer any plain question we put to him.

      This appeared the more extraordinary, as even the natives of Otaheite, not-

descending to the youngest branch of the family.

      In this distribution, however, some irregularities had taken place; as his information had been procured from the English residing with him, who were not over-accurate in their genealogical knowledge. His conversation repeatedly turned to his want of fire-arms and gunpowder; but we contrived to avoid making any engagements on this subject.

      Observing the deep despondency into which the king's affairs had thrown him, our humanity averted from the idea of suffering him to have any spirits or intoxicating liquors; a present he doubtless expected, though he had the singular modesty to make no mention of it.

      The dilemma in which I had been involved at Otaheite with Edeah and her gallant, made me ever afterwards very

cautious in this respect with the natives of these islands. Their passions are naturally impetuous; and when fed by the fuel of strong liquors, acknowledge no restraint. I know no sufficient punishment that the wretch would merit who should import a cargo of spirituous liquors into the Sandwich or Society Islands; it would in every respect be tantamount to the wilful administration of an equal quantity of poison, as the extent of the evil would only be bounded by the destruction of the whole of the population.

      This unhappy man, who, from every thing we saw and heard, is well deserving of a better fate, had already suffered so much from the ambition and power of Tamahama, that he was now about to adopt one of the most extravagant resolutions that can be conceived.

      The Europeans who had attached themselves to his fortunes, some of whom were carpenters, blacksmiths, &c. were now with their offspring a numerous body. As their last resource, they

were constructing a vessel suited to the attempt of a long voyage, and in the event of the expected invasion, they proposed to escape from the island, and seek a refuge from the cruelty of their enemy in some one of the islands which they have heard are interspersed in the main sea. They are wholly ignorant of the method of measuring a ship's course, or of the other necessary branches of navigation. A compass, indeed, they possess. Their intention in the first place, is, to steer to the westward, in the hope of reaching some part of the coast of China; or, by keeping their wind to the southward, to fall in with Otaheite, or, some other of the Society Islands. Dreadful alternative! and in fact the case is desperate, for they are well aware that resistance is in vain when once invaded. Perhaps, in the whole catalogue of human misery, there

is not one more poignant, and more the object of pity to a generous mind, than that of a whole people becoming thus the victims of the ambition of one man, and, to satisfy his lust of conquest, expelled from their native home. The most pathetic pieces of poetry in any language, are the lamentations of the Spanish Moors upon their expulsion from Spain. The love of country is never understood, till we consider it as lost or endangered. I cannot speak of this unfortunate people without a melancholy involuntarily seizing on the train of my ideas.

      Extravagant as this scheme of emigration may appear, in a people so destitute of the proper means for executing it, yet it is not improbable that by such enterprises in different periods of time, the most distant islands may have been peopled, and a similar language and mode

of life established in quarters which seem to have no possible means of intercourse.

      In Otaheite the same means have not unfrequently been proposed for escaping from the fury of a victorious foe; as in the case of old Pomarrie, who in his distresses has repeatedly applied to European navigators to convey him to some distant spot, where, removed from the attempts of his rivals, he might live free from danger.

      Even our sailors were much affected by the unhappy situation of this chief, for he was by far the most intelligent native of these seas; and the ardent affection of his dependants and subjects was an ample testimony of his worth.

      During our stay in the island, he never left the ship, but ordered whatever we wanted to be brought off to us, and was obeyed with the greatest cheerfulness and

punctuality. As he had made such a progress in the English language, his conversation was at once entertaining and instructive to us; and had his mind been more at ease, and his affairs in a more prosperous situation, a very advantageous connection might have been established between us.

      His presence on board encouraged the islanders to bring off considerable supplies of salt, so that in a short time we made great progress in our business. When the labours of the day were over, we entertained the king, with his relation the general, and the other attendants, with a dance and song, performed by our Otaheitan natives, in which Pulpit's young wife bore a principal share. As the women of the Sandwich Islands are generally of a coarse masculine appearance, and nut-brown complexion, this young Otaheitan, who was a very good sample of her countrywomen, passed for a

beauty in this place. The king was himself pleased to term her a very pretty girl. On this occasion he took an opportunity of informing me that he had sent an ambassador all the way to Otaheite, to negociate with Otoo for a wife; and observed that as we had come from the ice he expected that the man would have embraced that opportunity of returning in our ship with the object of his mission. Indeed, previous to our leaving Otaheite, this man had solicited a passage home, having been unsuccessful in his application to Otoo; we assented to his wish, but the night previous to our departure he swain on shore from the ship, thus forgetting his duty and allegiance to his sovereign, through the preponderating influence of Otoo, who had seduced him from a falling cause.

      The king's attendants were resolved not to be outdone on this occasion; and

displayed their ingenuity in the same way, exerting themselves to the utmost for the entertainment of the company. At last our own tars, that they might contribute their proportion to the delights of the spectators, produced a violin; and one of them, who was an excel. lent dancer, performed a hornpipe in such perfection, that all the strangers joined in acknowledging that our music and our dancing were far superior to their own. We perceived with pleasure that these amusements seemed to afford a temporary relief to the unhappy king; he seemed for a moment to forget his cares, and participate in the satisfaction of his subjects. Would that we could have effectually dissipated his anxiety!

      As soon as we arrived on the coast of this island, we found it necessary to employ every precaution to prevent any further desertion from the ship;

and being persuaded that we might count on the fidelity of Pulpit, whom we had taken on board at Ulitea, and who had already rejected all the offers of the king, who earnestly wished to retain him as an assistant, we admitted him into the cabin mess, whilst his Otaheitan lady ate with our cabin boy. This separation was not occasioned by her attachment to the customs of Otaheite, where the sexes always eat apart; but in fact the behaviour of this poor female being not always governed by what is considered as correct propriety in Europe, she was not altogether the most desirable companion at our table.

      In the course of my stay at Attowaie, we had many opportunities to observe the dispositions and conduct of the king. One night, the wind increasing to a storm, we were driven out of sight of the island, and were two

days in regaining our station. All this time the king expressed the greatest concern for his family and friends on shore, without seeming in any degree alarmed for himself. On returning to our former situation, it occurred to the king to make an experiment of the regard really entertained for him by the natives. When the first canoe came alongside, the king concealed himself in the cabin, directing one of his attendants to say that we had landed him on the island of Whahoo, and delivered him up as a prisoner to the authority of his grand enemy Tamahama. This canoe, belonging to the king himself, was loaded with provisions for his use; amongst which were some young dogs, esteemed in these islands a peculiar delicacy, and therefore kept for the tables of the great alone.

      The dogs of the Society and Sand-

wich Islands are indeed very different from the same animals in Europe. They are very carefully fed, and any thing that might render their flesh coarse and strong, kept out of their way; by this means they were said rather to resemble kid than dogs, and are not unfrequently tasted by our hungry sailors.

      Not seeing their master upon the deck, the islanders enquired earnestly how and where he was: being told he was now a prisoner in Whahoo, they laughed heartily at the supposed jest; but as all their countrymen on board agreed in a serious repetition of this assertion, they were struck dumb with astonishment and grief. Never was affection, never was the terror of genuine loyalty, more strongly impressed, than on the countenances of these honest subjects of an unfortunate king.

It was gratifying to a generous mind to witness this affectionate testimony, as well of the fidelity of the subjects, as of the worth of the chief. This was no flattery; it was the generous, the honourable impulse of an honest nature.

      After sometime, they recovered them. selves so far as to renew their enquiries, with looks aghast with terror. They eagerly demanded how this disaster had happened; at the same time condemning themselves for -suffering him to remain on board the ship, and be exposed to such a misfortune. When their despair was wrought to the highest pitch, the poor king, who witnessed the whole scene, could no longer contain his feeling; but running upon deck, showed himself to the natives, reproaching them kindly for so readily believing that we could have so betrayed him into the hands of enemies. The sudden tran-

sition from grief to joy produced the most lively and affecting change on these faithful creatures. We could not how. ever so far recover them from their terrors, as not to intreat the king to leave the ship, that he might not be again driven from the island, and exposed to some serious accident. To this he goodnaturedly agreed; and was preparing to leave our vessel, when a large double canoe came alongside with an European on board.

      His errand was to acquaint the king, that a report having reached the island of his having fallen into the hands of Tamahama, the inhabitants were become disorderly, and that nothing but his appearance amongst them could restore tranquillity. The good king now appeared, and it must be confessed with good reason, much happier than before; he seemed to collect new hope from this

testimony of the love of his people, and to forget all his danger in the pleasing reflection that he was thus beloved. I am persuaded that, animated with this love for their chief, had the numbers of this good people been even in a small degree more proportionable to that of their enemy, even the warlike Tamahama would not have found them an easy conquest. But their strength is too unequal to indulge any expectation of even safety in resistance. They have indeed but one resource left, that of flight in their new-built ship; and desperate, and apparently chimerical, as this is, it promises more success than the chance of war.

      His immediate departure being now indispensable, I enquired what we could do to express our sense of his many favours? To this he answered, that if we really were his good friends, we would

supply him with whatever we could conveniently spare of iron, canvas, and other necessaries for his new vessel.

      Having a good stock of iron, I furnished him with as much as he thought sufficient for his purpose, together with some tools, axes &c.; crowning our presents with a few looking-glasses, a quantity of English cloth, and a small supply of gunpowder.

      These articles this good man accepted with the most affecting demonstration of genuine heartfelt gratitude; and entering his canoe, he requested us on our return home to mention his hard fate to our countrymen; he concluded with pouring out benedictions upon us, and at length, having finished his adieus, he rowed for the shore with the greatest dispatch.

      The melancholy fate of this chief, his strange reverse of fortune, and the dis-

mal prospects still awaiting him, joined to the goodness of his conduct and character, had completely enlisted us on his side; and we could not but earnestly hope, that he might in the event triumph over his grand enemy Tamahama.

      We almost regretted that captain Vancovre had ever touched at the island of Tamahama; as from his assistance principally had this chief obtained that addition to his former strength, which, improved by his uncommon talents, had enabled him to become a conqueror and usurper. Had captain Vancouvre foreseen the consequence of his encouragement of this ambitious chief, I am persuaded he would have received the advances of Tamahama in a very different manner; but we are all blind instruments in the hands of an overruling Providence, and it is some consolation that all this is not

without some purpose of good, though it may exceed our powers to comprehend it.

      We had now procured a good stock of salt, but not sufficient to answer our purpose; and having come so far, we were very unwilling to return without the completion of our plan. We had now no resource left, but to return to one or other of the islands under the command of Tamahama. We were already aware of the difficulty of procuring ship provisions in the islands belonging to this chief, not only on account of the high price required by the natives, but that no articles would be received in exchange but precisely such as the sellers should choose, To obviate as much as was practicable these difficulties, we bore up for One. how, the other small island still remaining faithful to the rightful king of Atowaie; who, previously knowing our in-

tention offered to accompany us in person; but it appearing more prudent that he should remain for the present where he was, he dispatched a messenger before us to Onehow, informing the natives of our intended visit, and directing them to treat us with every attention, and supply our wants.

      This notice produced its full effect; for on our making the island, the natives flocked off to us, furnishing abundance of yams at a very moderate value; we there also laid in a small addition to our stock of salt. Here, as at the other islands, all were eager to be admitted on board; but the notion of our ship being a man of war, and the formidable appearance of our marines, kept them in awe. We received none in the ship but one of the king's deputies, and, through the interest of this great man, two other chiefs. We found, from the lan-

guage of these persons, as also of the other natives, that they were stedfastly attached to their lawful king, and determined so to remain, although they had but little hope of being able to withstand the attacks of their common enemy Tamahama.

      Having in the course of four days collected about three tons of yams, an invaluable treasure to us in such circumstances, we set sail to the eastward for Owhyhee, and there renewed our intercourse with the natives, who, as has been already mentioned, were complete masters of their business. Every article we wanted was at least three times, many of them six times, the price they would have borne at the island we had just left.

      Soon after our arrival we received a visit from our countryman, Mr. Young, who had resided there for fourteen years past; from whom we had a confirmation of the particulars respecting Tamahama communicated to us at Whahoo, and of his erecting a royal residence at Mouie, and, above all, of his fixed determination to attempt the conquest of the two other islands, of Attowaie and Onehow.

      His palace is built after the European style, of brick, and glazed windows, having European and American artificers about him of almost every description. Indeed his own subjects, from their inter. course with Europeans, have acquired a great knowledge of several of the mechanical arts, and have thus enabled him to increase his navy, a very favourite object with him. I have no doubt that in a very few years he will erect amongst these

islands a power very far from despicable.

      The circumstances of this enterprising chief were greatly changed since the visit of captain Vancouvre, to whom, as to the servant and representative of the king of Great Britain, with much formality and ceremony, he had made a conveyance of the sovereignty of Owhyhee, in the hopes of being thus more strongly confirmed in his authority, and supplied with the means of resisting his enemies.

      His dominion seems now to be completely established. He is not only a great warrior and politician, but a very acute trader, and a match for any European in driving a bargain. He is well acquainted with the different weights and measures, and the value which all articles ought to bear in exchange with each other; and is ever ready to take

the advantage of the necessities of those who apply to him or his people for supplies.

      His subjects have already made considerable progress in civilization; but are held in the most abject submission, as Tamahama is inflexible in punishing all offences which seem to counteract his supreme command.

      It was only in 1792 that captain Van. couvre laid down the keel of Tamahama's first vessel, or rather craft; but so assiduously has he applied himself to effect his grand and favourite object, the establishment of a naval force, that at the period of our arrival he had upwards of twenty vessels of different sizes, from twenty-five to fifty tons; some of them were even copper-bottomed.

      He was, however, at this time much in want of naval stores; and, to have

his navy quickly placed on a respectable footing, would pay well for them. He has also a certain number of bodyguards to attend him, independently of the number of chiefs who are required to accompany him on all his journies and expeditions.

      In viewing this man, my imagination suggested to me that I beheld in its first progress one of those extraordinary natures which, under other circumstances of fortune and situation, would have ripened into the future hero, and caused the world to resound with his feats of glory. What other was Philip of Macedon, as pictured by the Grecian historians? a man who overcame every disadvantage of slight resources and powerful rivals, and extended the narrow sovereignty of Macedon into a universal monarchy of Greece, and the known world.

      Some convicts from Botany Bay, hav-

ing effected their escape to the Sandwich Islands, rendered themselves at first servicable to Tamahama, and, in recompence, were put in possession of small portions of land for cultivation. On these they raised some sugar-canes, and at last contrived to distil a sort of spirit, with which they entertained each other by turns, keeping birth-days and other holidays; until Tamahama, finding that such festivities greatly retarded his work, made some gentle representations on the subject.

      This lenity, however, producing no good effect, but the drinking, idleness, and quarrels among the new settlers, seeming rather to become more frequent than before, and their insolence being carried so far as to insult and maltreat many of the natives, Tamahama gave the strangers to understand, that in their next fighting-party he would make one of the company, and see who

could best acquit himself on the occasion. This hint produced the desired effect: the Botany Bay settlers were soon brought into complete submission, and a due sense of their situation.

      These particulars were collected from Mr. Young; a man of strict veracity, who, having been long in the country, had the best opportunities to know the truth. He has been long in the confidence of Tamahama, whose fortunes he has constantly followed from the beginning, and who gives him daily proofs of the sincerity of his attachment. He added, that for several years Tamahama had adopted it as a rule, to request from all Europeans who touched within his do- . minions, a certificate or testimonial of his good conduct towards them; but that now considering his character for honesty and civility to be established, he no longer deems such certificates of any important use.

      Tamahama's ardent desire to obtain a ship from captain Vancouvre, was in all probability first excited by the suggestions of Young and his countryman Davis: but such was the effect of this undertaking, that Tamahama became immediately more sparing of his visits on board the Discovery; his time being now chiefly employed in attending to the carpenters at work on this new man of war, which, when finished, was named the Britannia. This was the beginning of Tamahama's navy; and from his own observations, with the assistance of Messrs. Young, Davis, &c., he has laboured inflexibly in improving his marine force, until he has brought it to its present perfection; securing to him not only a decided superiority over the frail canoes of his neighbours, but the means of transporting his warriorrs to distant parts. Some of his vessels are employed

as transports in carrying provisions from one island to another to supply his warriors; whilst the largest are used as men of war,and are occasionally mounted with a few light guns. No one better under stands his interest than this ambitious chief: no one better knows how to improve an original idea. The favours of Vancouvre, and his other European benefactors, would have been thrown away on any other savage; but Tamahama possesses a genius above his situation.

      His body-guards, who may be considered in some respects as regularly disciplined troops, go on duty and relieve each other as in Europe, calling out all is well at every half-hour, as on board ship. Their uniform at this time was simply a blue great.coat with yellow facings.

      With other things which Tamahama has learned by intercourse with Euro-

peans, he has acquired a relish for our spirits, so that some navigators have exchanged their rum with him to very good account; sometimes when his stock of liquor is exhausted, he employs the Europeans settled in his dominions to extract spirits from the sugar canes, which grow there of an excellent quality. When Tamahama means to relax from his serious occupations, he invites his own wives and those of his chiefs to share his regale of spirits, which in its operation seldom fails to create disputes and even quarrels among the ladies, to the great entertainment of the master of the feast and the other male guests.

      The natives of the Sandwich Islands are in every respect much more ingenious, and much further advanced in the knowledge of the useful arts of life, than those of Otaheite. It is true that the former are excelled by the latter in the manufacture

of cloth; but the spears, the clubs, mats, calibashes, fish-hooks, and other implements of the Sandwich Islanders, are far superior to similar articles made in Otaheite, whose inhabitants are not much regarded by their northern neighbours. The natives of Bollabola, on the contrary, are esteemed by the natives of the Sandwich Islands as the bravest and most expert warriors of the Society Islands; every thing being good, according to their adage, that comes from Bollabola. A number of the Sandwich Islanders have at different periods passed to Otaheite, where they find every encouragement to settle from the young king Otoo, who, from their superior skill and warlike disposition, generally prefers them as the attendants on his person.

      During our stay at Atowaie, one of these Sandwich Islands, we observed the king and his fighting general made use

of spitting boxes inlaid with the teeth of their enemies slain in battle; and this practice, joined to other circumstances, observed at the time of their being discovered by captain Cook, leads to the belief that human beings were not unfrequently their food. Indeed they were confessedly canibals at the time of their discovery.

      The Sandwich Islands are extremely well peopled, all circumstances of their nature and fertility being considered: and the women, according to Mr. Young's account, are said to be more numerous than the men; whereas in Otaheite the women are not reckoned to amount to more than one tenth part of the population.

      The striking difference in the population of these two spots may in a great measure be imputed to the absence from Owhyhee of the horrid practice of in-

fant murder. This increased population of the Sandwich Islands has had one good effect; it has compelled the natives to exert themselves in assisting nature by the more careful cultivation of the soil, and other branches of industry. The tarra, yam, and sweet potatoe, are productions common to all the islands; but are found in the greatest plenty in those which lie to leeward, and are cheapest in Atowaie and Onehow, from whence we took on board three tons of yams, and twenty hogs; articles which would have cost a considerable sum in any of the islands subject to Tamahama. These islands also produce most of the tropical fruits; melons, shaddocks, pompions, plantains, and bananas, are here in great abundance. They likewise furnish Indian corn, but not in a great quantity. The sugar-canes are here of excellent quality.

The mountain plantain is of the greatest service to the natives; for with these, some cocoa-nut water, and a little mahie (a sour paste made of the bread-fruit when ripe), well beat up together, they make a dish called pop poye, eaten by all ranks from the king to the lowest of the inhabitants. The same food is universally used in Otaheite.

      The Sandwich Islanders in the dominions of Tamahama, frequently make voyages to the north-west coast of America. and thereby acquire sufficient property to make themselves easy and comfortable, as well as respectable among their countrymen; to whom, on their return home, they are fond of describing with great emphasis and extravagance the singular events of their voyage. Several of them

have made considerable progress in the English language; their intercourse with the Anglo-Americans, and the navigators from Britain, having given them the opportunity, of which they have so eagerly availed themselves.

      The canoes of the Sandwich Islands far surpassed any that we had seen in other parts of the world; not only in solidity and strength, but in the neatness and skill of workmanship. These canoes are so well calculated for speed, that we have seen the natives work them along with their short paddles at the rate of eleven or twelve miles in an hour, and fairly run them under water.

      Although they have these excellent canoes in abundance, the natives, both men and women, often dispense with the use of them, and swim to vessels approaching the island, with no other support than a thin feather-edged slice of

wood: with these they play a thousand tricks, tumbling and plunging one another into the water, then rising to the surface and plunging again, like so many inhabitants of the deep.

      Their fondness for the water is indeed singular. They may be sometimes seen extended and lolling indolently on the water for the whole day, without any occupation, and as much at their ease as if it was their native element. Instances are very rare, I believe, of the Sandwich Islanders being drowned; their boldness and dexterity in diving is perhaps unrivalled in any part of the world. Some of them who were employed by us to assist in certain operations in the ship, would dive in fifteen fathoms of water, and clear the cable, however entangled in the jagged rocks at the bottom.

      I have heard from Mr. Young, that Tamahama, in the early part of his

career, being one day on board, requested of the captain an anvil, an article of which he stood in great need. To have a specimen of the spirit and skill of the natives, Tamahama was told that he should have one on the condition that his divers should simply bear it up in ten fathoms water. To this he instantly agreed, and the anvil was thrown into the sea. Tamahama immediately sent some of his people down after it, expecting to raise it without difficulty; but they found it somewhat too heavy. Unwilling however to abandon so great a treasure, they continued their efforts, and, after long and repeated exertions, succeeded in rolling the anvil along the bottom of the sea, for about half a mile, relieving each other alternately till they gained the beach, and were received by their countrymen with the loudest applause.

      These and similar exertions, although never declined by the divers, are often attended with dangerous consequences to their health. On their reappearing on the surface of the water, we observed their faces to be greatly swelled, their eyes red and inflamed, and blood discharging profusely from their nose and ears.

      In a short time, however, they recover their usual state, and are ready to repeat the same exertion, and incur the same or greater injury. The only precautions employed by them on these occasions, are to close the apertures of the body, as if to prevent the entrance of the water.

      To show their wonderful expertness in diving, they would sometimes go aloft to our top-gallant yard, then plunge into the water, pass under the ship's bottom, and again appear on the opposite side tumbling and sporting like

so many water-fowl. We once attempted to turn this qualification to advantage, by employing some of the natives to nail parts of the copper sheeting on the ship’s bottom. They would remain not less than three or four minutes under the water, come up to the surface to breathe, and return to their work. This, had we not witnessed, we should not readily have believed.

      Both sexes are strong, hardy, and capable of enduring great fatigue. During our stay amongst them, the natives of Otaheite on board, struck probably with the lively manners of the people, and the appearance of the country, availed themselves of a dark night to slip down the ship's side, and swam unperceived to the shore. They soon however discovered that they were not in Otaheite; for in the Sandwich Islands none are permitted to be idle, but all must labour

for a subsistence. This kind of life was not to the taste of the Otaheitans; they embraced the first opportunity to return to their native island, and arrived there soon after our return. With them like. wise returned to Otaheite our carpenter, who, as has been mentioned, had deserted from us a short time after we had reached the Sandwich Islands.

      An intercourse between these islands and Otaheite may be of signal service to the latter island; as the natives of the former are well acquainted with the cultivation of the ground, and many other useful and ingenious arts to which the Otaheitans are almost entire strangers. Since the discovery of the Sandwich Islands by captain Cook, who so unfortunately lost his life on one of them (Owhyhee), the natives, who constantly lament his untimely fate, have made rapid progress in many mechanical arts;

and in the course of a few years more, they confidently hope to be in a condition to open a trade with China in vessels of their own construction, and navigated by their own people.

      They are already well acquainted with trade on the north-west coast of America; and from thence they may draw many articles to make up their cargo for their own country, or the neighbouring islands to the westward.

      It may naturally be asked, what articles of commerce or barter can be possessed by the Sandwich Islanders, a people just sprung from nature? The answer is at hand; they are able to furnish fire-arms, gun-powder, hardware, and cloth of different sorts; of all of which Tamahama has accumulated more than what is required for their own consumption.

      These have been acquired in the ex-

change for labour and refreshments supplied to the shipping who have touched there; particularly such as are engaged in the trade to the north-west parts of America. When the cargoes of these last are completed, they readily part with such articles as remain at a very low rate, rather than be incumbered with them during the remainder of their voyage. Besides the abovementioned articles of foreign introduction, the Sandwich Islanders possess the sandal wood, pearl oyster-shell, and some pearls, all articles of high value in the China market. One difficulty, however, still remains to their accomplishment of this object, which is their want of hands to navigate the ships on voyages of such length and intricacy. Fortunately however for these enterprising islanders, there are now resident among them several Europeans and

Anglo-Americans, men of ability and knowledge; such are Mr. Young, Mr. Davis, Captain Stewart, &c. &c. For twelve or fourteen years before our vi. sit, these gentlemen had employed them. selves successfully in instructing the natives, and their extraordinary chief Tamahama, in many useful arts, and particularly in that of navigation from island to island, so that many of the inhabitants have thus become brave, hardy, and not inexperienced sailors.

      In the commencement of their trading expeditions, the Europeans would no doubt be entrusted with the command; but the islanders, from their ardour to learn, and capacity for instruction, would soon themselves be in a condition to take the charge of the vessels and cargo. It may perhaps be supposed that the king would be unwilling to entrust these vessels, property, and persons, to

the Europeans and Americans residing among them, lest they should carry them to some distant part of the world, and then either wholly abandon them, or appropriate the profits to their own advantage. But of this there is little danger; as, independently of the good conduct hitherto evinced by these strangers, and their consequent good character in the islands, almost all of them have married in the country, and have a numerous offspring to whom they are powerfully attached, and have besides renounced all idea of ever returning to their native land.

      This barter, or carrying-trade, .between China and the north-west coast of America, would soon enrich the inhabitants of the Sandwich Islands, and their wants and desires for the luxuries as well as the conveniences of life would speedily increase; an opening would

thus be made for the introduction of the arts, the manners, the improvements, and knowledge, of civilized Europe.

      The Missionary Society might perhaps find it answer their purposes, to turn their attention to that quarter where, in my humble opinion, their benevolent efforts are more likely to prove successful than in Otaheite. The Otaheitans are indeed apparently softer in their manners than the northern islanders, but they are far behind the latter in their skill in the arts of life, and in their de. sire to acquire instruction of every kind.

      Indeed, from certain events that took

place on their being discovered, and particularly from the lamented fate of the great Cook, the Sandwich Islanders have generally been regarded as a race of savage barbarians. The truth, however, is, as has been already noticed, that many of the horrible practices of the more amiable Otaheitans, such as infant murder, &c. &c. are unknown amongst them; and the fatal accident which befel Cook, is to this day deeply and generally deplored.

      Their eager and insatiable curiosity to observe and understand whatever is doing by the Europeans, unrestrained by any of those considerations of propriety which influence civilized nations, has had a tendency to draw on them the character of rude and uncultivated men; but let it be considered that this curiosity and ardour are not the effects of childish ignorance, but are produced by the most

decided anxiety to learn whatever they see done: their seemingly rude behaviour will then be forgiven.

      Should the Missionary Society adopt this hint, and make the experiment, I have no doubt that land might be easily procured as a grant or as a purchase. Tamahama is perfectly acquainted with the nature of a bargain, in the European sense of the term, and would conform rigidly to the conditions; differing in this, as well as in many other respects, from certain chiefs in Otaheite. The latter are constantly endeavouring to extort fresh remuneration from the missionaries there, whom they seem to regard only as strangers suffered to remain amongst them during their good pleasure.

      Missionaries in the Sandwich Islands would moreover experience every aid from the resident Europeans. This is

another great advantage over their countrymen in Otaheite, and Tongataboo. From the first arrival of the Otaheitan missionaries they were exposed to the greatest hardships and dangers from their own countrymen. Some desperadoes of Europe, at that time residing among the natives, instead of assisting these worthy men in their forlorn situation, they took a malicious pleasure in counteracting their efforts on all occasions, misrepresenting their views, and endeavouring to stir up the natives to outrage and violence. Young, Davis, and Stewart, would, on the contrary, be of infinite use in the Sandwich Islands; they would negotiate between the missionaries and the natives; and, being men of probity and character, in full possession of the confidence of Tamahama, their good offices could not fail of effect. I am persuaded that a simple application

      As a proof of the fidelity with which Tamahama fulfils his engagements, I may mention that of the cattle introduced by captain Vancouvre; the terms were said to be, that none were to be touched for a certain number of years. This condition has been rigidly preserved till that time expired, and these animals have in consequence become so wild, that none of the natives dare approach them. So that,ranging at their full liberty, they have destroyed the fences, trampled down the crops, and done much other damage. Though the inhabitants themselves have frequently suffered thus severely from their incursions, they have rigidly adhered to the condition of the original gift.

      Owhyhee may be seen, in fine weather, at the distance of forty leagues out at sea; containing two very lofty

mountains, Mouna Roa,and Mouna Kaa, whose summits are generally enveloped in clouds and vapours.

      A few days before we left the bay of Karakakooa, seven spermaceti whales passed within half a mile of the ship, rolling along very deliberately to the eastward. Had any of our South Sea whalers been there at the time, there might have been excellent sport, and no very unprofitable employment; probably not less than two thousand pounds value for the day's work.

      Having now accomplished the object for which we had visited the Sandwich Islands, that of laying in a stock of salt, we took in a sufficient-supply of water; for this we were compelled to pay a most unreasonable charge, being obliged to employ the natives, as our own people would most probably have seized the opportunity of deserting.

      In the evening of the 21st of January

1803, we weighed and stood away along the shore to the eastward. In this course we had a very full view of some eruptions from the volcanoes in the centre of the island of Owhyhee. With a favourable wind and clear weather, we briskly proceeded on our return to Otaheite.

John Turnbull
      A Voyage Round the World: In the Years 1800, 1801, 1802, 1803, and 1804, in which the Author Visited the Principal Islands in the Pacific Ocean and the English Settlements of Port Jackson and Norfolk Island,
  Volume 2
London, R. Phillips, 1805.

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